Antarctica 1995/1996 diary part 7


Jan. 9, 1996: Packing

In the morning, I finished packing my stuff into my suitcase and the two orange duffel bags that have been provided in Christchurch. After breakfast I headed out to Willy Field. I helped a little with packing all the stuff that we do not need anymore, neither for the under-flight nor for the recovery, and then went back to McMurdo for lunch with Harry. At 1pm we had the so-called 'bag drag', i.e. we had to show up at the MCC (Movement Control Center) building with all our personal stuff. One duffel bag and my suite case were taken as hold bags, i.e. I will not see them until Christchurch. My hand carry (the other orange duffel bag) was almost too large, but I convinced people that I could compress it to the required size. They weighed the hold bags, the hand carry, as well as us in full ECW gear. Afterwards we went to the Crary Lab to spend some time in front of the computer screens. Dave called and asked us to come out to Willy Field for a meeting at 4pm to discuss the under-flight, which we did. There is now a detailed plan of what to do on the under-flight.

The Coast Guard icebreaker had arrived when we came back. I just saw the last few yards of breaking the ice in the port, but it was quite spectacular to see this large ship having so much problem breaking the ice. At the MCC already they had told us that our flight got shifted to 11am Jan. 10, and at 11:30pm the television screen showed that it was shifted to 11pm next day Jan. 10.

The big event today was the end of the 'diet race' between Dave and Harry. Before dinner, the two dressed in the cloth they wear in the beginning and then each of them was put on the scale. Both of them lost about 18 pounds (quite remarkable), but Harry won by 3/4 of a pound and got $10 from Dave.

Jan. 10, 1996: Leaving McMurdo

The delay of the flight by 24 hours gave us a free day at McMurdo, although without our luggage. Most people were aware of the danger of delays, so I had a full set of cloth etc. to cope with the situation and not being forced to wear the ECW gear all the time. I got up at 7:30am, had breakfast, and went to the Crary Lab to implement the latest images on my WWW page that Tim (the firefighter) took of the balloon launch.

After lunch we watched the icebreaker turning up the ice close to the port. Since we had nothing to do, Harry, Kim, and I walked over to Scott Base to buy some souvenirs. It was a nice walk with reasonable weather, i.e. some clouds and not too cold. Indeed conditions improved and the weather was great when we left. The shop at Scott Base is much smaller than the ship store at McMurdo, but the Kiwis have a much better collection of T-shirts, postcards, and books. Afterwards we walked back to McMurdo.

Transportation to Willy Field was to take place at 9pm from the MCC building. We arrived there at about 8:40pm since we certainly did not want to miss this flight. Indeed, most people showed up about 15 minutes early. Ivan the terra bus then brought us to Willy Field. The radio communications indicated that we could go directly to the plane and board around 9:30pm, well below EDT (Expected Departure Time, another TLA). However, when we approached the field, we were told that we have to wait for another 30 minutes. Finally around 10:30, we, the 28 passengers, received a brown bag with food and juices and boarded the plane. We all squeezed onto the narrow 'seats' and fastened our belts. Suddenly a mechanic showed up with wrenches and started to work on something. She then told us that we have to get out of the plane to give her the possibility to fix part of the gyro system. At 11pm we boarded again and finally took off. This was my first flight in an LC-130 (which has skis compared to the C-130 we had on the flight onto the ice), and the takeoff was as smooth as with wheels.

A few minutes after takeoff people started to spread around the plane and search for good spots to lie on. There was not much cargo and the loadmaster was friendly, which improved the situation. We had four Kiwi bigwigs on board, which resulted in a remarkable flight. In fact, we flew right over the crater of Mt. Erebus and had a great view of the sea ice border. The views were just fantastic and some of us were almost glued to the few windows. After the show was over, I noticed some free space on one of the benches and went right for a nap. Indeed, I slept for about 5 hours, although not completely uninterrupted.

Jan. 11, 1996: From Christchurch to Tucson

We arrived in Christchurch around 7am after a flight of about 7 hours 45 minutes due to nice tail winds, which is fast for an LC-130 with its additional air resistance due to the skis. Since we entered New Zealand again, we had to pass customs at the regular international airport of Christchurch. Some early-bird tourists there looked quite astonished at us people in the ECW gear. We then received our hold bags in the regular baggage claim area, where it was sniffed by a dog. It was rather confusing, because all the luggage looked the same. Afterwards we walked over to the Antarctic Center and received the suitcases that we left in Christchurch. Although they went through all the cloth we received in the beginning with each of us, they were not strict if something was missing. Astonishingly, I still had all the things I got. We also received our itineraries for the flight back to the US and a US Antarctic Program patch (the one we had on our parkas). It took me until about 8:30am to get all my stuff into the two suitcases and my backpack.

At the NSF center we got our tickets for the flights later in the afternoon and read and wrote some e-mail. The services provided by the NSF and ASA at the airport are really good. Afterwards we spent some time in the gift shop of the International Antarctic Center. It was funny to see the tourists taking photographs of each other with a dummy wearing the ECW. We thought that we should have gone there directly in our ECW gear and just pose as a dummy until a tourist would touch us and then say something like 'good morning, Sir'. It was amazing to see that the same things in the gift shop were more expensive than in McMurdo or at Scott Base. We also went back to the regular airport to get some more Kiwi dollars and make some phone calls. Kim and I also checked-in our luggage so that we do not have to carry around our suitcases all day long. Harry and Ashok will stay in Christchurch.

Kim, Ashok, Harry, and I then took the bus to downtown Christchurch and went for lunch. After lunch we went to the museum at the botanical garden, which has a nice exhibition on Antarctic explorations. It was funny to see part of our equipment already behind glass in the museum. Ashok said that he had found the bus station close to the museum and that we would meet there at 2:45 to take the bus back to the airport. However, while I spent some time in the book shop of the museum, Kim looked for the bus station and noticed that it was only for tourist buses. Since Kim and I were the only one on the flight back to Auckland, we went to the down town bus station and got to the airport. Later-on Ashok and Harry made it back to the airport to say goodbye. The weather was still cloudy and it was sometimes raining. Therefore, there is not much to say about the flight back to Auckland at 4:30pm. I almost missed the snack because I couldn't stay awake.

In Auckland we walked from the domestic terminal to the international terminal and boarded the flight to Los Angeles. We got really bad seats, i.e. center section and all the way back in the 747. However, after a ride in a military plane, everything else is luxury. I was sitting in a row with a mother and her two teenage boys. It turned out that she was a Kiwi and had married a US Navy engineer who served in Antarctica with the Navy squadron. Her husband is dead (don't know why), but the younger boy (sitting next to me) still has some of the cloth his father wore in Antarctica. Again, this was a night in a plane and I slept for about 7 hours out of the 12 hours of flight.

Jan. 11, 1996: Back in Tucson

No, it is not a typo, I really had January 11th for more than 24 hours due to crossing the international date line. This compensates for November 28, 1995, that I never experienced. We arrived in Los Angeles around noon. It took me about an hour to pass customs because of the many international flights coming in around this time of the day. Since I was not able to check my luggage through to Tucson, I took my two suitcases and walked over to the America West terminal to check them in again. After changing planes in Phoenix and finally made it back to Tucson with all my luggage.
You can contact me at ckeller@noao.edu